Mask update...

Here is my mask as it stands this afternoon...

Note the teeth and nostrils starting to come along...

I failed to mention that I have commissioned Nyoman to make me a mask, which he will start on Saturday. I had been thinking long and hard about it- to have the opportunity for a master carver to make you a mask from scratch is a massive deal. And to also see him carve it, work beside him, and build a relationship- rare and beautiful. I had wanted for him to make me an Arlecchino, but I figure I can buy one here (his commedia masks are great, again, carved, not made of leather). Then I was thinking about a monkey mask (not specifically a Hanoman mask, but something similar). Again, I can buy those here. This is an example of some of his work...

I especially love the unfinished ones (Nyoman loves carving, he's not so crazy about painting/finishing and often his wife helps him with the brush)...

I was having a great discussion a few nights ago with another colleague on the Dellarte program, a theatre professor from York University in Toronto, and we got talking about bouffon. I tried to explain mine to her- play; laughter; round. And then it struck me, as I was recalling the images I had drawn of it- I must capture it in mask. Unfortunately, I didn’t bring my workbook to Bali with me. I did a tentative sketch for Nyoman, explaining the characteristics to him, and he got it straight away.

I have been showing Nyoman my Topeng dancing, and he has been giving me extra pointers (as well as a mask carver, he is a dancer). Topeng style is different from teacher to teacher, although the moves/choreography are fundamentally the same. He is more precise with the footwork, specifically the placement of the heel and the strength drawn from the thigh. I have told him I like his dance teaching and will come back to Bali to learn both carving and dancing off him. He seemed pretty stoked about that.

And as I think about it, I have probably failed to mention a few things about what I’m doing here in Bali. The day starts at 7am with yoga for an hour, then breakfast, followed by Topeng dance class with Pak Gusto for an hour[ish], then a quick break to swim and/or go for a run, then it’s in the bemo (the Bali bus van) to drive about 45 minutes to Landanghidung to carve with Nyoman from 1-5pm (we start the carving day cracking open a fresh coconut and drinking it, then eating lunch), then back to Ubud by 6pm. Every second night there’s something on, including Kecak class with Anom. It’s so full, there’s little time for me to debrief in order to take in what has happened during the day.

Did I mention that this is the view from my carving spot? It's the family temple. Nyoman is a deeply spiritual man. He meditates everyday. He carves everyday. He is also the head of his Banjar, which is made up of roughly 60 families. A father of three. A lover of animals.

If you look closely, you'll see the cat is actually hanging out up there eating the offerings.

I’m craving more time working in the mask- it’s difficult because the people in my dance class are of mixed ability, so I hit walls of frustration because I want it all now (and I know I have to be patient). Learning Topeng is just like learning ballet, in fact, you would be a fool if you thought you could learn Balinese dance and you’d never danced before. It is just as hard as stepping into an advanced ballet class. So of course, it baffles me as to why people come here without the physical discipline. PRECISION. PRECISION. PRECISION.

It didn’t rain at all today, the first clear day I’ve experienced here, and so my brain has melted to my skull a little bit. I need sleep, rest, and a personal assistant to sort out my NZ affairs. Apply within.

My first temple...

This morning we were invited to a temple by our Topeng teacher, Pak Gusto. He was performing the Topeng Pajegan at a ceremony for a family in Ubud.

It’s totally legit to go to temple performances; you just have to wear the right gear, which for women is the kebaya (long sleeve shirt), sarong, and sash. I bought my ensemble from the market, it was a stressful experience and I was overcharged despite getting the entire outfit from one stall. Suffice to say, my shirt is way too big but there’s no way I’m going to go back to exchange.


Mine is cotton, but most of the women wear lacey ones (they are cut modestly, but are see through so they wear sexy slips underneath).

We met Gusto at his friend’s house then walked over. Before he danced, we got to hang out and listen to the gamelan (the cooler guys wore raybans and smoked clove cigarettes, ashing everywhere)...


Watch the women laying down the offerings...


And were entertained by the young girls dancing. The little one in the yellow kebaya in the front row was extraordinarily good!



Here is a bebe in mini temple gear.


Anyway, he got ready...

Putting on the layers and layers of his costume...


And then launched into the dance (after about an two hours of sitting around. Bali Time eh?).

He didn’t have a stage per say, so he performed between the gamelan and one of the temple complexes (infront of the Ubud nobility). There were 6 characters all up, he played four of them, his friend playing the other two.

Topen Keras (The Hard Mask), also known as Topen Pengelembar (The Opening Mask): Young, early stages of life.

Topeng Tua (The Old Mask): Rich in experience, old.


Topeng Penasar (The Interpreter Mask, on the left). Tells the story of his experiences as a youth and mature person (expresses wisdom etc). The guys in the hat is the High Priest. I don't know his Balinese name. Then comes Topeng Dalem (The King Mask). Leadership. Wasn't danced today, but these two talked about him an awful lot (according to Gusto in a debrief afterwards).

This was a servent/clown character, and he chatted with the Penasar character...


Topen Sidha Karya (“he who succeeds in his work”). He looked terrifying (this is in order to ward off evil in order to reach enlightenment).


It was great to watch the topeng in this context, it was surprising how little the audience paid attention, only responding to the light banter the king character was throwing at them (I’m sure they have seen it a thousand times before). The walk back home was pretty exhausting; almost every taxi driver in Ubud stopped and asked me why I was wearing temple gear. They were pretty amused.

Tonight a few of us are going to watch the sun set and have some drinks at Hotel Campuan. Bliss.